As summer plans started to take shape I realized that I would have some free time in July. I initially thought about taking advantage of this time to head to Quebec to start a province list there, and stop in northern NH to try for Spruce Grouse along the way. But then I realized that I had also 3 key statebird targets in northern Maine - Spruce Grouse, Three-Toed Woodpecker, and Bicknell’s Thrush. I had only birded northern NH and ME once before, and it had been a long time ago – 1981 for ME, and 1997 for NH. So I spent some time on GoogleMaps trying to figure out if it could be feasible to get to spots for all 4 of these New England statebird targets with a reasonable amount of driving. And with a liberal definition of “reasonable”, I figured out an itinerary with stops near Baxter State Park, ME to try for Spruce Grouse and Three-Toed; Rangeley, ME for Bicknell’s; and Pittsburg, NH for Spruce Grouse. I contacted Bob Duchesne and arranged to hire him for guiding support for the Baxter-area birds, and teamed up with Denny Abbott to put the plan in place. And then as the trip neared a sighting of Screech Owl at Brownfield Bog in ME was posted. So I added a stop in Brownfield along the way to try for the owl and the trip was set.
Day 1 – Brownfield Bog, ME and an Attempt
for Screech Owl
We had received what appeared to be pretty
detailed directions for the Screech Owl location – within 20 yards of a large
sign describing the bog en route to the “dynamite shack”. Though neither of new what the dynamite shack
was, soon after we arrived at the bog we found the large sign and thought we
had the right spot. As dusk approached
we realized we had ideal conditions to listen for nightbirds – calm winds and
no road noise. But despite playing some
tape, we had no responses. After about
an hour we decided to drive a bit farther down the road to try again, and came
upon yet another sign, identical to the first one, and right next to a small
shack at the edge of the road. Was this
the dynamite shack? And if so, was this
the right sign instead of the earlier one?
We got out to play some more tape but there was now a pretty strong
breeze which was making a lot of noise coming through the trees, so conditions
weren’t the best. We tried for another
30 minutes before giving up, and wondered if our results would have been
different if we had started the night at the second sign instead of the first
one. Not the best start for the trip…
Day 2 – Forests West of Baxter State Park,
ME
Although I had arranged to hire Bob
Duchesne on Day 3 to try for Three-toed Woodpecker and Spruce Grouse, we were
first going to spend the afternoon of Day 2 on our own to give them a try. Our plan was to concentrate on the boreal
forest immediately west of Baxter State Park, working the numerous logging
roads in the area near Telos Road. We
had good directions for 2 general areas for the woodpecker, and a general
strategy to try for the grouse, so I was cautiously optimistic that we might
get both targets and not need to meet up with Bob the next day.
With an early start we made it to the area
by noon, and headed right to one of the woodpecker spots – an area just west of
Nesowadnehunk Campground. We had only
been there for a few minutes when another pair of birders arrived who said they
just had the Three-toeds at the other suggested spot on Harvester Road, and
gave us explicit directions to a nest site.
About 30 minutes later we were on Harvester Road and within a couple
minutes found the nest hole. We were
lucky to have run into the other birders who gave us such great
directions. Much of the time we were
able to see one of the adults sticking its head out of the hole apparently to
stay cool on this hot day.
And at one point one adult came in to
switch places with the other bird on the nest.
These were my first American Three-Toed
Woodpeckers for New England - my 425th species.
And Maine is only my 6th state nationwide for this species.
As we watched the nest we were serenaded by
Olive-sided and Yellow-bellied Flycatchers and numerous warblers. And a short distance down the road a
Black-backed Woodpecker flew over right in front of us. It was quite a spot.
We spent the rest of the afternoon slowly
driving along the logging roads hoping to run into Spruce Grouse, but with no
luck. We did have a nice view of a bear
cub and a young moose, and heard lots of warbler song. Though probably due to the time of day, we
actually saw very few birds. So given
our mixed success, I contacted Bob Duchesne and told him we would still need
his help for Spruce Grouse the next day.
Day 3 – Second Day in the Maine Boreal
Forests
We met Bob at 5:30 and were back in the
boreal forests by 6:30. Our first
interesting observations of the day weren’t avian - a fisher running across the
road right in front of us, and a snapping turtle laying her eggs at the edge of
the road. We then drove or walked along
numerous miles of some of the best spruce habitat, but couldn’t find any
grouse. We had 15 species of warblers,
including actually seeing many, had several Boreal Chickadees and a family of
Gray Jays, but no grouse. Late in the
morning, Bob noticed a very recent scrape on the side of the road that a grouse
had likely used that morning for a dust bath.
Bob went into the woods to look for the bird
and I decided to search a different portion to cover more area. Bob came back out and said he heard a female
grouse giving an alarm call, so I followed him back into the woods to try to
see her. We went back to the same
location, and we both heard her give one more call note and heard a couple
twigs snap, but that was it. We waited a
couple more minutes, but realized we weren’t going to find her, though she was
likely quite close. I sure wish I had
followed Bob into his part of the woods initially. But since we still had several more locations
to check, I was still hopeful.
Unfortunately, even with a couple more hours of searching, that single
call note was the limit of my observations of Spruce Grouse in ME. Hardly satisfying, but enough (though just
barely) to check it off for my ME list – my 5th state for the grouse.
Day 4 Morning – Saddleback Mountain, ME
The plan for the morning was to hike up the
ski area at Saddleback Mountain in Rangeley, ME to try for Bicknell’s
Thrush. Bob Duchesne had given me some
good advice, including that I would not need to hike up more than about halfway
up the mountain to get the Bicknell’s. He
suggested there would be no need to go higher than where there is a trail goes cuts
around the eastern part of the mountain connecting the various ski trails. With clear skies and only a light breeze, I was
pretty optimistic as I started my hike up the Grey Ghost Trial from the lodge
at about 5:30 AM. I almost instantly
started hearing Swainson’s Thrushes, and quite a diversity of warblers. But as I continued up the mountain, the only
thrushes I heard were Swainson’s. I
tried hard to turn them into Bicknell’s but to no avail. When I reached the connecting trail and still
hadn’t heard any Bicknell’s, I was beginning to become pessimistic. I spent some time going around the mountain
on the connecting trail, rather than continuing the steep ascent up the
mountain, but still only heard Swainson’s.
But since it was just 7 AM, and there was
still plenty of song, I decided to continue up the mountain. I was now well on my way toward the top of
the mountain and still hearing loads of warblers (especially Blackpolls - I
ended up with 14), Winter Wrens, Juncos, Yellow-bellied Flycatchers,
White-throated Sparrows, and the continuing occasional Swainson’s Thrush. But then I heard what I thought was a single
Bicknell’s call note coming from the woods on the other side of the slope. I walked over to that section of the woods
and heard another call note. It was
indeed a Bicknell’s! I played some tape
but got no response. So although I could
check it off my list, it was a hollow victory, and I wanted to do better. So I decided to continue my ascent up the
mountain and try to get above the Swainson’s, hoping that the only thrush would
then be Bicknell’s.
Now I was up to the end of the Grey Ghost
Trail and starting up the Tri-color Trail toward the ridge. By 8 AM I was halfway up the Tri-color Trial and
nearing the ridge, but was still just hearing Swainson’s. And now the amount of song was diminishing,
and it was beginning to get quite warm.
Plus I was feeling the effects of the hike having gained something like
1,500 feet in elevation. So I decided to
turn around and head back down the mountain, feeling like my search for
Bicknell’s was only marginally successful.
On a brighter note, the view from the top of the mountain was
spectacular.
And I’ve always loved wild lupines.
I now have Bicknell’s in VT, NH, and ME on
its breeding grounds, in addition to seeing one in NH in migration.
Day 4 Afternoon – Spruce Grouse Search in
Pittsburg, NH, and a Quick Stop in Quebec
Our next stop was to head to Pittsburg, NH
to try for Spruce Grouse. The Grouse is
rare in Pittsburg, but when it is spotted it is typically seen somewhere along
East Inlet Road. So our game plan was to
spend late afternoon on Day 4, and the morning of Day 5 if needed, birding
along East Inlet in search of this elusive bird. And given our very limited success the 2
previous days in ME in excellent habitat, where Spruce Grouse is much more
common, we weren’t particularly optimistic.
Denny and I arrived in the area mid-afternoon,
and almost as soon as we turned onto East Inlet Road a Gray Jay flew
overhead. We stopped to check it out and
soon found two adult and two juvenile Jays.
Or more accurately I should say that these friendly birds found us, at
times flying within just a couple feet of us looking for handouts.
While we watched these inquisitive birds
Boreal Chickadees could be heard calling nearby. Certainly a nice start to the NH leg of the trip.
We continued to drive down East Inlet Road
and at about 2 ½ miles from the beginning of the road we came to an overgrown
trail heading off to the west where Denny had had Spruce Grouse in the
past. We starting walking down the trail
but quickly came to some deep water, so we headed back to the car to put on our
boots to be able to continue the hike.
We were just about to head back down the path when I heard a muffled
flutter of wings nearby. I instantly
remembered that Bob Duchesne had mentioned that one way to detect hidden Spruce
Grouse was to listen for a wing flutter sound as they changed perches. So I walked just a few feet back down the
road and noticed some movement up in a spruce tree. And there it was – a female Spruce Grouse
well hidden in the trees. Denny and I
watched (and heard!) it fly to 3 additional perches – surprisingly each time
now in young deciduous trees. I was able
to get this less-than-stellar photo of the Grouse way back in the shady woods.
NH was my 6th state for this species, and
my 3rd and most likely final New England state.
And now that meant we had lots of extra
time on our hands since we weren’t planning to head home until lunchtime the
next day. All along I kept hoping that
we would have at least a little time to head to Quebec to start my province
list there, just as I had done in Manitoba and Saskatchewan back in May. So with passports in hand, we headed north to
the immigration booth. While we were
waiting our turn to go through immigration, I spotted an adult Bald Eagle in
the distance in Quebec air space – a nice start to the province list. In the next 90 minutes we got about 40
species making numerous stops along the road in good habitat – nothing too exciting
mind you, but of course everything was new.
Day 5 Morning - Parc National du
Mont-Megantic in Quebec
With an entire morning available before
heading home, I planned a trip a short distance into Quebec to the Parc
National du Mont-Megantic. With a bit of
on-line research I found a park map with many miles of trails, and some high
elevation mountain tops that could be driven to. We got to immigration when it opened at 8 AM,
and by 9:30 we were in the park after a few more brief stops along the way. At the park headquarters we found a worker
who spoke English who suggested a couple trails to take, and that Mont
Saint-Joseph would be the best mountain in the park for birding. Almost parenthetically she said that birders
go there early in the morning for the Bicknell’s Thrushes. That one wasn’t on my radar screen but
certainly worth a try.
We began the drive up Mont Saint-Joseph in
some drizzle and light rain. There were
some Juncos and White-throats along the way, and an occasional warbler and Winter
Wren, but otherwise it was pretty slow.
When we reached the summit it was raining pretty hard, so we waited it
out in the car. After a while it was
just drizzling, so I headed out with umbrella in hand, and took a walk around
the summit. The area was wooded with
classic krummholz – stunted spruces with branches all pointing away from the
prevailing wind direction. In just a
couple minutes I heard a call note that I quickly remembered from my hike up
Saddleback Mountain the day before – it was a Bicknell’s Thrush. After hearing this bird continue to give its
call notes it erased any doubt I had in my mind about my identification of the
calling bird the previous day in ME. I
played a bit of tape and the bird came right in to investigate. In the next several minutes I had the best
views of Bicknell’s ever. I ended up
finding at least 3 birds, and had 2 giving full songs in addition to the
characteristic call notes. We also had
Gray Jays at the summit, making it a very nice stop. Other nice birds in the park included both
Kinglets and Red-breasted Nuthatches.
Our last stop in Quebec was at a farm along
the road where we picked up several Snipe and a very early Semipalmated
Sandpiper. I ended up with 63 species for
the province, including a nice 12 warbler species. I almost got a 64th species as we exited
Canada. We were sitting in line at US
immigrations and heard a singing Mourning Warbler. But since we were literally right at the
US-Canada border, the question was whether the bird was in NH or Quebec. I found the clearing the bird was likely
singing from, and unfortunately it was in NH right on the border.
Quebec is now my 3rd highest province list,
and my Canadian ticks total 415.
Needless to say, keeping province lists hasn’t exactly been a priority
for me. But now that there are less
ticks to pursue in the US, and I’ve got at least small lists in 6 provinces,
maybe I’ll be spending more time birding Canada.
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